Koyu in Roslyn opens to full counter and an intimate taste of Japan

Local News Koyu in Roslyn opens to full counter and an intimate taste of Japan By Christie Leigh Babirad … Comments Posted on November 9, 2026 Executive Sushi Chef Bryan Yee, Chef/Partner Marc Spitzer and Partner Noam Shemel at Koyu in Roslyn Village. Jovani Demetrie If Japan is still on your bucket list, there is no better introduction to its cuisine than Koyu in Roslyn. Koyu is an intimate 12-seat subterranean omakase counter experience featuring at least 18-courses that showcase fish flown in directly from Japan, as well as locally sourced and premium ingredients. Koyu, a name that evokes the bonds that form around a single counter, opened on Nov. 5 to a full counter. The restaurant was created through Northern & Main Hospitality Group, a partnership between chef and partner in Koyu, Marc Spitzer, an established chef who spent over 20 years shaping BONDST into one of New York City’s most notable Japanese restaurants, and Noam Shemel.  Executive Sushi Chef Bryan Yee is at the helm, a former longtime BONDST Sushi chef who has trained in well-known kitchens including O Ya, Zuma and Tao. “At a 12-seat counter, nothing is hidden—guests watch every cut and every course come together, so every choice has to mean something,” said Yee, who recently came back from Japan with “a lot of new ideas.” Yee said that while traditional Edomae-style is “very special” to him, he also wanted to put their own spin and modern interpretations on a dish when it “enhances, never overpowers, the course.” “My goal is for each night to feel like it could only happen at that counter, with the people sitting around it,” said Yee. Spitzer noted that Edomae-style nigiri is certainly at the heart of the meal and how everything is built on their shari, which is a house blend of three vinegars including an aged red vinegar. He added that the fish is also aged and also cured or seasoned with adherence to age-old technique “first and foremost.” “But each night allows us to have some fun and break boundaries, whether it’s with opening otsumame courses, small composed bites like our A5 Wagyu Cannoli, a crisp nori shell with wasabi mascarpone, A5 wagyu tartare or osetra caviar,” he said. “It’s that playful, but always respectful of the ingredients, approach that makes each night an adventure.” He said that he and Yee have cooked side by side for over 15 years and refers to the menu at Koyu as a “conversation between us.” Koyu offers only two seatings an evening, Thursday through Saturday, with 12 seats around a single counter and Shemel explains the intentionality of this decision. “Long Island has become a much more sophisticated dining destination, and guests are increasingly seeking experiences that were once something they had to go into Manhattan for,” said Shemel. “Koyu is designed to deliver that level of experience in a format that has become a destination in its own right.” Shemel said that the intimacy and deep connection is, in fact, what they are most excited about with Koyu “With two seatings, everyone at the counter starts together and moves through the meal together, at the same pace, with the chefs’ full attention,” he explained. “That’s what makes omakase so special, and it’s very hard to do that at a larger scale—keeping it to 12 seats means every guest gets a front-row seat.” Spitzer emphasized the name of the restaurant speaking to this exact concept and that guests often come in as strangers but then leave having shared something special with the people beside them. “With 12 people, I can get to know each guest, see what they’re enjoying and adjust as we go,” said Yee. “That’s the part of omakase I love most, and when they return, we’ll be able to build on that dialogue each time—we’ll remember their preferences, and they will feel that connection.” After working on their first restaurant “Okaru” together, Shemel said that he and Spitzer considered bringing Koyu to Roslyn as being personal, as they both also call Long Island their home. “ Koyu is the next chapter for Northern & Main, and it’s built on the same commitment to hospitality that’s guided Okaru from day one,” said Shemel. “We’re grateful for how the community has embraced us, and this is only the beginning.” Spitzer called opening night “incredibly rewarding” and said that the feedback they already received regarding the full experience and service meant the most to them. “Hearing it rivals the best omakase counters they’ve been going into Manhattan for…that’s exactly what we set out to do,” said Spitzer. Yee said that opening for him was special because he was able to finally see the guests’ reactions around the counter, face-to-face. “ People were asking about the fish, the rice, the ceramics—that connection is the whole reason we built Koyu the way we did,” said Yee. What makes Koyu the place to have a night out and a great dining experience, Spitzer said, is that it gives them the opportunity to take everything they love about Japanese dining and make it focused and personal. “ We’ve loved serving Roslyn and the surrounding community since we opened Okaru, but with Koyu we’re able to dial in on the experience even further to offer our guests an intimate, immersive and transportive experience that can only be achieved around a single counter,” he said. Shemel noted that it’s a night out that starts the moment you walk down the stairs and arched hallway beneath Okaru. “The room is warm and quiet, and everything about it, from the intimate counter to the ceramics that Bryan just brought back from Japan, to the wine and sake pairings, has been deeply considered,” Shemel said. “You’re watching every piece made by hand, talking with the chefs, choosing your own sake glass—it’s more than dinner; it’s an incredibly special evening that’s almost like getting tickets to a Broadway show.” Spitzer recommends that guests come “hungry and curious.” “When people think of omakase, they may have had different experiences with platters or chef’s choice, but in the most traditional sense, it’s a journey guided by the chef’s whims—it’s seasonal, it’s intentional, but it’s also deeply personal for us—we can’t wait to welcome you to the counter.” Koyu is located at 1401 Old Northern Blvd. in Roslyn. To learn more, visit Koyu’s website at koyu-omakase.com or their Instagram @koyu_omakase. For more food and drink coverage, click here. About the Author All comments are subject to our Community Guidelines . Schneps Media does not endorse the views shared by readers in our comment sections.